Engine rebuild time: Parts list

"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword) 09/04/2016 at 15:40 • Filed to: wrenching, Trans Am

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So the car is finally home. Weirdly enough I actually feel both better and worse.

Getting ready for a top end engine rebuild. Money and time currently prohibits me from buying the performance parts I want, So I have been putting together a list of what needs done. Since the engine runs well now, I don’t think I am going to get any machine work done if I can help it, that will take place in about two or three years when I really build the engine. I was going to run this by you guys since I am officially in uncharted territory.

Timing chain/ new gears

gasket set

New front/rear main seals

Water pump

thermostat

temperature sender

freeze plugs

head bolts (?)

Is there anything else I should do while I am in there? Short of head work, honing and ect. since it will probably be getting new aluminum heads, camshaft, bearings and rods next time I open her up. I was looking to bring in this whole “rebuild” for less than 500$, since again it is a good running engine. Multiple leaks combined with my exhaust manifold removal problem and a nylon timing gear are my motivation here.

crowmolly > My bird IS the word 09/04/2016 at 15:51

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Timing chain/ new gears- cool

gasket set- oil pan etc? Sure.

New front/rear main seals- if they aren’t leaking, leave em

Water pump- only if it needs it

thermostat- sure. Don’t replace the water neck with a cheapo chrome one

temperature sender- sure

freeze plugs- why?

head bolts (?)- why?

See above. I wouldn’t crack any gasket surface that isn’t leaking at this point. If it hasn’t had it’s carb and dizzy set up yet I’d do that and replace what is needed there.

My bird IS the word > crowmolly 09/04/2016 at 16:05

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freeze plugs are leaking (apparently, I need to take a better look) the water pump was something I was always told to do while it is convenient, they are really cheap for rebuilt ones so not a biggie. The head bolts were something I wasn’t sure if I should replace or not, (it seems like the hot rod magazine guys do it all the time). Carb has been done, but the distributor I havent touched (and didn’t think about, will be much much easier with the engine out now that I think of it)

His Stigness > My bird IS the word 09/04/2016 at 16:43

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I’m not familiar with older American cars, but anything built in the last 15-20 years uses torque to yield head bolts, aka stretch bolts, so you need to replace them each time.

The water pump is usually replaced when you’re paying for labor, or if it’s a pain in the ass in the car (or both). When it’s being done at a shop a water pump and thermostat are also usually required if you want a warranty.

My bird IS the word > His Stigness 09/04/2016 at 16:53

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Good to know about the head bolts, the water pump is something that needs to come off anyway, so I might as well replace it rather than have a failure later. Rock auto lists a water pump at $18.89 so I figured why not?

His Stigness > My bird IS the word 09/04/2016 at 17:25

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I always advise against aftermarket parts. Sure, they’re a lot cheaper, let’s say half the price of OEM, but OEM also fits properly, and usually lasts more than five minutes.

A good example that happened on Friday. The service writer got rotors from Napa, and I had to take a mallet to get the wheel on (the rotor was on a Ford dually and it was a one piece rotor with the studs built in). I was so pissed off, mainly because I deal with that kind of thing on aftermarket parts all of the time.

Urambo Tauro > My bird IS the word 09/04/2016 at 17:29

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What year, what engine?

Nylon timing gears eeeeewww. Get a double roller set in there. The Cloyes set that I put in my truck was <$30.

Are valve cover gaskets part of this? Might want to take the opportunity to adjust the valves...

My bird IS the word > Urambo Tauro 09/04/2016 at 17:42

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I should be doing valve cover gaskets as well. a few aftermarket manufacturers make cast iron gears with pre-stretched chains that I like, think most were less than fifty. I will look into adjusting the valves.

Urambo Tauro > My bird IS the word 09/04/2016 at 17:50

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Valve adjustment isn’t bad if you know what you’re doing. I didn’t, when I tried to do it on my truck a few months ago. I mis-interpreted the manual (which was worded in such a way that it could be taken one way or the other), and found myself with an engine that wouldn’t start.

I eventually figured it out, and it’s super easy. Just a matter of loosening and tightening the rocker arms correctly.

My bird IS the word > Urambo Tauro 09/04/2016 at 17:57

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Oh I forgot to mention: 1979 oldsmobile 403. not that it matters, I just wish I had a good book for these engines. I had a real good book when I did my carb and it got done right.

Urambo Tauro > My bird IS the word 09/04/2016 at 18:10

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It does matter, I dunno to what extent, though. I imagine that the Olds doesn’t have quite as much of an aftermarket as the SBC, but I doubt that they’re terribly different when it comes to service procedures.

My bird IS the word > Urambo Tauro 09/04/2016 at 18:31

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The 403 is kind of the orphan of the lineup, parts do exist though. It is not a good engine for “high performance application” i.e drag racing but as a street engine it is more than adequete. They are supposedly good for up to 400 horsepower N/A which is plenty. It is basically just a plane jane gm pushrod v8. It has the highest bore to stroke ratio of any gm block (so much torque) but that same large bore makes the block weak which limits rpm, boost, and overboring.